The final destination on my whistlestop tour of cities in South America was the iconic Rio de Janeiro. I’d arrived here after a few enjoyable nights in Sao Paulo, and I was feeling very excited to get a glimpse of the world-famous Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. I arrived late- afternoon and immediately headed out from my hotel in Copacabana. My initial impression was that the street areas of Ipanema and Copacabana look a little tired and were not quite what I’d imagined. But for someone who had always dreamed of standing on Copacabana beach with the iconic city of Rio behind me, the moment when you finally arrive there really is a surreal one. I don’t think there is a major city in the world that has a setting as distinctive as Rio. The way that nature intwines with the urban environment – forested rock peaks, beaches, bodies of water, favelas and skyscrapers – it really is a unique place.
A forced change of plan meant that I would return to Rio a bit later on in the year for 2 months, but on this occasion my visit was just for a few nights. On my first full day in the city the weather was glorious and I only had the first half of the day free before a football match in the evening, so I walked up and down the packed beaches soaking up the sun before then heading out to the Olympic stadium in the early evening to watch Botafogo play at home to America Mineiro.
On my final day in the city, I booked a tour so that I could see all the major sites, but unfortunately, we were very unlucky in terms of the weather. It was absolutely chucking it down all day long! However, the show must go on and we started the day by driving to the famous Santa Teresa barrio so we could see the famous tiled Selarón steps. It was nice to say I’ve seen them but the huge amount of rainwater gushing down the gutters at the side of the steps was rather depressing! We did take refuge in a lovely local restaurant nearby and ate the traditional Feijoada, which is a black bean, pork and beef stew. Served with rice it was delicious, and one positive of the rainy conditions was that it made the meal feel even more wholesome.
We then made our way up to what is the jewel in the crown, Christ de Redeemer, the famous giant statue of Jesus that watches over the city. Unfortunately, the weather was so bad that you could barely see ten meters in front of you, let alone the landscape of Rio below which is said to make for a glorious view on a clear day. I did get to take some pretty atmospheric photos of the statue itself, but by this point all of us on the tour were feeling pretty damp and cold. With that in mind and the weather showing no sign of stopping, the guide advised us that it wasn’t really worth taking the cable car up Sugarloaf Mountain, and with that the tour was complete.
My extended trip to Rio for a web development course came a few months later and it meant that I had a lot of time to get to know the city on the weekends. I based myself in the neighbourhood of Gloria next to the bay, and the shared Airbnb I stayed in was in a glorious historic building. It had me wondering what Rio was like in the mid-20th century. I imagine it to have been a very exciting place to be before more difficult times arrived, and I loved listening to the host’s stories about his life in the house and in Rio.
It’s a fascinating yet complex city. I never felt as uneasy or as in danger as the media might have you believe you should, but the city certainly has an edgy feel to it. Even down in the upper-class south zones of Ipanema and Copacabana, I always felt I needed to be very aware of my surroundings and belongings. And this wasn’t just me being paranoid. The course I was doing was full or Rio natives and they had personal experience of robberies down on the seafront. The inner urban areas naturally have a reputation for being more dangerous and I often went to the inner neighbourhood of Tijuca to spend time with friends. It’s not an area that is considered as dangerous as some of the favelas and it didn’t feel as dangerous as you might expect given the city’s reputation. It actually had a nice vibe with lots of people socialising in and around bars and restaurants.
One of the things that I love about Rio is the metro system. Built prior to the Olympics, it has a good coverage of the city, it felt pretty safe, and the carriages are air conditioned. A local once said to me that Rio has two seasons: summer and hell! So as ‘hell’ approaches, the air- conditioned metro can really be the perfect way to travel around the city. The metro even reaches the station Jardim Oceânico which is past Ipanema and at the start of the big modern- looking area of Barra de Tijuca. It is a coastal area, and it is actually my favourite place to stay in Rio. I spent a week there and whilst it doesn’t have the character of the city, I enjoyed the calmer atmosphere and I preferred the beaches. It is a big area but if you can get accommodation near to the metro station then it is easy to travel in and out of the city as and when you like. One Sunday morning I made the trip to the fabulous market in Ipanema after enjoying the beaches of Tijuca early in the morning. And then back to Ipanema to enjoy the afternoon having bought some lovely souvenirs for my family. The market is called ‘Feira Hippie de Ipanema’, and it only takes place on Sundays but it’s definitely worth a visit if you have the opportunity.
All in all, Rio is a place I’ll never forget and perhaps I’ll visit again one day. Yes, it is a complex place, but if you are fascinated with South America like me and you have the opportunity to experience it, then I would say it is a must. And if you are also a football fan like me, then you really do have to experience it! The football scene in Rio is incredible, and with the city being home to 4 of the biggest clubs in a football mad country, at times it is unavoidable!